by Nan Reiley
Pioneer John Deere not only revolutionized American agriculture with his 1837 invention of the polished-steel plow, but he also provided direct descendants who continue the family’s farming tradition by growing wine grapes and making fine wines. Charles Creek Winery in Sonoma County is the most recent family entry into the fine wine business. (Landmark Winery, in Kenwood in Sonoma Valley, is also owned and managed by Deere family members.)
Bill Brinton (the Deere descendant) and his wife Gerry were both born and raised in the Midwest. Both have MBA degrees and both spent many years in the urban world of business and finance, most recently in San Francisco as the founders of the Wiman Juice Company, making freshly squeezed fruit juices and smoothie bases for sale in supermarket stores. It was when the couple moved to Sonoma County to provide a more rural lifestyle for themselves and their two young children that the idea of making wine was born. Buying a home with a small Merlot vineyard was very possibly the tipping point in their decision to create a winery, which they did in 2002.
Bill and Gerry made good use of their business sense when they decided not to build a monument to themselves in the form of a luxurious “wine chateau” to showcase their wines. Rather, they opted to pass along the savings to their customers: instead of pouring millions of dollars into an edifice that would demand higher-priced wines to recoup its building costs, they invested in buying the best grapes from the best vineyards and in hiring a seasoned winemaker who could translate the excellence of the fruit into equal excellence in the finished wine.
Both vineyards and winemaker come with impeccable and long-lived credentials. Sangiacomo, Hyde, Stage Coach and Mountain Terraces Vineyards are well-respected and prestigious sources for Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, the focus varieties at Charles Creek. Winemaker Kerry Damskey has more than 30 years of experience and is an expert in the terroir (the ecology of the vine – climate, soil, sun exposure, etc.) of both Sonoma and Napa counties. He and Bill Brinton work together in blending the wines to create the distinctive, elegant Charles Creek style that has been winning awards in wine competitions since the very first vintage.
All this is good news for wine lovers who demand excellent wine at reasonable prices. But if there isn’t a “winery” to visit, where can these wines be sampled and purchased?
What better place than a tasting room on the famous plaza in the heart of downtown, historic Sonoma? (And what better way to spend a delightful day than strolling the plaza with its park and duck pond, unique shops, and superb restaurants?)
The Charles Creek tasting room is a small space that does double duty as an art gallery, its walls generously hung with local artists’ works for sale. You may notice the art work second, however, for dominating the floor space is Ms. Moo-lot. How to describe this whimsical wonder? Well, she is a life-size fiberglass cast of a cow, covered and decorated with thousands of lacquered wine bottle corks, in swirls and sweeps that resemble the hair patterns of a real cow. Complete with long metallic eyelashes, Moo-lot is definitely camera-worthy.
Give her a friendly pat and then step up to the bar for the real reason you came here: to sample some of Wine Country’s finest offerings. There are many wines to choose from, all with names referring either to family members or to the Spanish heritage of the region. (Ask the excellent, friendly tasting room staff to expound – they know their stuff.) You could start with 2006 Las Patolitas Chardonnay. It’s barrel fermented and aged, with a creamy, silky texture and aromas and flavors of pear, green apple and vanilla. It’s an intense, elegant wine. $24.99.
A second, contrasting Chardonnay is 2004 Las Abuelos, fermented with native yeasts. With its three years of bottle age, this wine shows as peach, caramel and pear, rich and subtle at the same time, with nicely integrated fruit and oak. $39.
An excellent example of classic Merlot is the 2004 Pasatiempo from Sangiacomo Vineyards. It’s unblended Merlot, very aromatic with chocolate and bright fruit flavors, and an intense, long finish. $26. One of the brightest stars in the Charles Creek wine roster is the 2005 Las Pasiones Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County). Grown on a mountain terrace vineyard at an elevation of 1,800 feet, this all-Cabernet wine is an outstanding example of classic Cabernet fruit. A spicy, minty nose is followed by rich, black fruit and berry flavors, smooth tannins and an intense, lingering finish. $39. (Only 300 cases of this wine were made, so why wait?)
The Charles Creek tasting room is located at 483 First Street West (on the plaza) in Sonoma. It is open from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily. The tasting fee is $5 for five wines, but this fee is waived with purchase, and the staff is happy to pour a few more tastes if you can’t make up your mind which you like best. Limited production and distribution make the Tecolote Wine Club a good opportunity to gain year-round access to these limited-edition wines. For more information, call (707) 935-3848, or visit the winery’s website at www.charlescreek.com.

Related Information

• Charles Creek Winery