2008-05-30
Bremer Family Cabernet
Perfectly Paired with Braised
Short Ribs from Fumé Bistro
Once you have tasted the Braised Short Ribs you will understand why such dishes are considered “comfort food.” What makes this version of a revered dish extra special is the generous use of the perfectly aged 2003 Bremer Family Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon as an ingredient, and the glass of the same remarkable wine poured beside the dinner plate to be sipped as the meal progresses.
Laura Bremer explains the hands-on care the family gives all the “big, bold, Bremer wines” starting with picking at optimum flavor, not by a calendar timetable. “The balance of the wine, the texture, and the finish,” she says, “must all meet the high standards set for all the Bremer wines. We then try the wine as it is meant to be enjoyed – along with food – just to make sure each blend heightens the consumer’s experience as we anticipated.”
The ribs recipe is from the kitchen of Fumé Bistro, the Napa Valley restaurant in which the Bremers are partners. Chef Terry Letson set his imagination free to create an exciting blend of fresh vegetables and herbs, including fennel and Roma tomatoes in a mix of wine, Port and beef stock that covers enough ribs to satisfy six hungry diners. Long, slow cooking brings the meat to melt-in-the-mouth tenderness in about three hours, or, if planning ahead it is just as tempting if refrigerated overnight and served the next day.
In summing up the perfection of this pairing, general manager, Justin Graffigna says, “The Braised Short Ribs give a taste of what Fumé Bistro is all about. We are an American bistro concentrating on French and Italian influences. The wine is perfect because the flavors of the sauce are rich and deep reflecting the plummy overtones of the Cabernet.”
Fumé Bistro is located at 4050 Byway East in Napa. For more information, call (707) 257-1999.
Bremer Family Winery is at 975 Deer Park Road in St. Helena. For more information, call (707) 963-5411.
BRAISED SHORT RIBS
for six hungry guests
• 6 lbs. beef short ribs, cut 2” thick and 3 bones each (your butcher will call these two by three’s)
• Salt and pepper
• Olive oil
• 3 large yellow onions, chopped
• 2 fennel bulbs, chopped
• 1 carrot, peeled and chopped
• 3 stalks celery
• 4 Roma tomatoes, chopped
• 6 cloves garlic, smashed
• 1 cup red wine
• 1/2 c ruby Port
• 3-4 cups beef stock
FOR THE SACH
• 6 sprigs thyme
• 8 sprigs parsley
• 3 bay leaves
• 1 Tbsp black peppercorns
• 1 tsp fennel seeds
Combine in a cheese cloth “bag” and tie with string or use a coffee filter being carefull not to tear it.
GREMOLATA
• 1/4 cup chopped parsley
• Zest of 1/2 lemon, finely chopped
• 1 large clove garlic, finely chopped
Season the short ribs generously with salt. Heat Dutch oven or a heavy bottom braising pan and sear all sides of the short ribs in olive oil (note, if you can find duck fat they brown even better!) in batches if you have to. Take the short ribs out and drain the oil.
Add 1 Tbsp. of fresh olive oil and the chopped vegetables and garlic and sweat for five minutes or so.
Deglaze with the red wine and Port and reduce by 1/2. Add the shortribs and sach, and add enough stock to cover the shortribs. Bring to a simmer, cover and put in the 300° oven.
Begin to test for doneness after 1-1/2 hours. A skewer or paring knife inserted into meat should encounter no resistance, and meat should be nearly falling from the bone. They will take up to three hours so give yourself plenty of time. When they are done let them sit in the sauce to cool with the lid off.
Strain braising liquid into bowl, pressing solids to extract all juices. Allow liquid to settle, then degrease. Pour liquid back over short ribs and reheat if serving immediately or cool, refrigerate and serve next day. To make gremolata, mix parsley, lemon zest and garlic (these ingredients should be chopped at the last minute) and scatter over short ribs just before serving.
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