2008-06-06
Grange Sonoma:
A Tasting Room Collective
by Diana Greenwood
When you think of a tasting room collective you typically picture an urban setting with counter crowds that match the commotion of the streets, but Grange Sonoma is smack in the middle of peaceful Carneros, one of the last true wine regions preserving agricultural history. Located in Cornerstone Place, a unique shopping and dining experience on a stretch of Highway 121, Grange Sonoma, A Tasting Room Collective, is sleek but unpretentious against a backdrop of vineyards and rolling hills. Here, city meets country at its best and the collective showcases 45-50 very limited production, vineyard designated Sonoma County wines made by some of the region’s most talented artisan winemakers.
General Manager and Proprietor, John Green, calls them “the wine geeks of the winemaking world.” These winemakers use native yeast fermentation and most are also growers who know their fruit better than anyone else. Their goal is to showcase the fruit by making special wines unique to the terroir of each vineyard. Take Bryan Harrington of Harrington Wines, for instance, who makes Pinot Noir and only Pinot Noir. Bryan uses the same cooperage for all his wines, looks for exceptional quality in fruit that highlights remarkable appellation flavors, and with minimal intervention, produces Pinot in which you will clearly taste a sense of place. Sourcing grapes from Sonoma Coast, Carneros, and the Russian River Valley, Harrington Pinots prove that the difference is truly in the vineyard.
It’s that kind of dedication to quality that, John and his wife, Heather Kirlin, vowed to represent when they decided to create Grange Sonoma. Native Napans with home ties to Carneros, the energetic duo have been in and around the wine business for many years. “We wanted a place where visitors could find special wines that were unavailable elsewhere but more than that, we wanted to focus on what Sonoma County does well,” said John. “Here we highlight nine wineries making Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Zinfandel, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah and one winery producing Cabernet Sauvignon. Every appellation in Sonoma County is represented. Case production is anywhere from 200-2000 cases and none of these winemakers have their own tasting rooms so you can only try them here. We offer the wines I like to drink.”
If you love good wine, expect some of the finest at Grange Sonoma. Try the wines of Mantra, made by Mike Kuimelis, Jr., a mostly self-taught winemaker who grew up in his family’s mountaintop and hillside vineyards of Sonoma County. Mike’s vision is to produce hand-crafted wines that reflect the diverse terroir of Mantra’s vineyards and he’s learned much of what he knows today from his father, long time grower, Mike Kuimelis, Sr. The father and son team blend their individual expertise and love of wine to make a luscious Cabernet Sauvignon, a zesty Zinfandel, and a Syrah that has been called “Sexy and Hedonistic” by Robert Parker.
You won’t want to miss the wines of Carica. Two friends, Charlie Dollbaum and Dick Keenan, started Carica Wines in 2005 to produce Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah of extraordinary character from small lots of premium Sonoma County hillside vineyards. Dick supplies the grapes from his Kick Ranch vineyard while Charlie complements the effort with a balance of science and art in his winemaking skills. Emphasizing gentle techniques and minimal intervention, Charlie’s goal has been to let the exceptional grapes from the Kick Ranch vineyard speak for themselves in an expression of their unique terroir. You’ll taste this duo’s dedication to quality in each glass when you visit Grange Sonoma.
Located at 23564 Arnold Drive (Highway 121), directly across from Gloria Ferrer Winery, the sprawling, corrugated tin-roofed architecture of the Cornerstone complex is in keeping with the country style of Carneros with its numerous outbuildings and farmhouses. The interior of Grange Sonoma follows suit with dove-gray walls, peaked roofline, and high, square windows like those of a traditional barn. There’s a long tasting counter with oversized farm-table legs in a black patina that contrasts with the golden woods and stainless steel touches. Upscale Wine Country products are impeccably displayed on softly lit shelves and a rolling ladder leans against a wall as though you could climb to the barn’s hayloft for an afternoon nap. On sunny days, a wall of windows slides open to allow extended outdoor seating. The place is casual and comfy yet elegant, as is fitting for the wines represented.
Grange Sonoma is open every day except Tuesday, from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. and for a minimal fee you’ll taste 4-6 distinctly special wines. Try the balanced, complex, and flavorful wines made by Phillip Staehle of Enkidu. Formerly of Carmenet Vineyards (Chalone Wine Group), Phillip loves working with his hands and using all his senses to create wines that express the character of the vineyard. Also represented is Eno Wines, producing small batches of Pinot Noir, old-vine Zinfandel, Grenache and Syrah from world class and undiscovered vineyards. Tallulah Wines is a boutique, family-owned winery specializing in the production of high quality, vineyard-designate Syrahs and Rhône style blends. Next is Winemaker Charles E. Heintz, producing the award-winning Dutch Bill Creek Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and Heintz Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah from the Heintz Ranch Vineyard. A notable name in Wine Country, Heintz Ranch has been owned by the Heintz family for nearly 100 years. Rounding out the Grange Sonoma collection is Derbès Wines, producing excellent Chardonnay from Carneros and Russian River, as well as Pinot from the Russian River Valley. Winemaker, Cécile Lemerle-Derbès was born and raised in Champagne, France, where she is still involved in the growing of grapes.
“We are wildly different,” said John Green. “Grange Sonoma appeals to all people who just love good wine." Grange Sonoma, A Tasting Room Collective, is a great place to spend a summer afternoon and when you’ve stocked up on your new favorite wines, take a walk through the lovely architectural gardens or lounge in the shade of the tented, outdoor seating areas, also available for special events and private tastings. For more information, call (707) 933-8980 or visit www.grangesonoma.com.
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