2008-07-04
GOOSECROSS CELLARS
by Michelle J. Baker
In the 1970s, Patt and Rey Gorsuch began selling Chardonnay from their 10-acre vineyard on State Lane in Yountville to prestigious wineries like Far Niente and Burgess Cellars. Over the years the Gorsuch’s realized they were growing Chardonnay that made top-notch wine, so with the help of their son Geoff, they decided to make some of their own.
Coming up with a name for their label was easy, because in old English, “Gorsuch” means “where the goose crossed the stream,” and, it just so happens, the Gorsuch property was also on the migratory path of more than a few Canada Geese.
Goosecross Cellars made its first wines in 1985. In the early 1990s, Geoff Gorsuch’s college roommate David Topper bought out the elder Gorsuch’s interest in the winery, and the two longtime friends went about making and selling estate-grown Chardonnay exclusively. In 1997, when Goosecross purchased another small Howell Mountain label that specialized in Cabernet Sauvignon, they started expanding into other varietals.
Today, Goosecross makes 10,000 cases of wine, not one of which you’ll find on the grocery store shelves at Safeway or Ralphs. Goosecross sells all of its wine directly to its customers at the winery, through the website and its popular wine club. That’s not easy to do, but the Goosecross team has worked hard to develop their loyal following.
Part of the Goosecross formula for success has been to provide Wine Country visitors with a casual (nearly rustic) but spirited and lively tasting room experience. The tasting room staff at Goosecross takes their cues from Colleen Topper, co-owner of the winery and its first host in the 1990s when all she had to pour was Chardonnay. Colleen, a native of Occidental, has brought a small town sensibility to the Goosecross tasting room, a place that serves as a reminder that expensive art and architecture really don’t make the wine taste great, but having a good time does.
Of course you have to start with good wine, and there’s plenty of that at Goosecross Cellars. Goosecross is one of those wineries with something that will satisfy everyone (with a total of 14 varietals produced). Start with the light, bright and deeply flavored Sauvignon Blanc to whet your whistle. After years of practice, the Chardonnay continues to be a standout. You’ll also be impressed by the Viognier, an aromatic, fruit-driven example of the varietal. Goosecross also makes a Chenin Blanc that is fresh and fragrant with just a touch of sweetness – the only non-dry wine offered.
On the red side, Goosecross gets very serious, very fast. What’s most impressive with their reds is not only how delicious they are, but also how true to varietal. The Zinfandel is, well, quite Zinnish (or would that be Zinny?), with luscious jammy berry fruit flavors and still wonderfully balanced and nicely structured. Then there’s a brooding, dark and serious Syrah, with beef and eucalyptus notes accenting dark fruit flavors. This is the kind of Syrah you buy in multiples, stash away and open once a year to see what else it has become willing to reveal about itself.
But since Cab is king in Napa Valley, Goosecross steps to the plate with a couple of great ones. Their Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is largely from the valley floor, which provides soft, “drink me soon” tannins to support the forward fruit and chocolate notes. Then, in the decanter and weighing in at “hold me five years” is the Howell Mountain Cabernet, as intense a Cabernet experience you’ll find in Napa Valley at $69 a bottle.
Which brings me to the quality-price ratio at Goosecross, another reason for their loyal following. These wines are pretty easy on the wallet for this level of quality. With three whites in the $20s and three reds in the $30s, Goosecross offers a lot of wine for the buck. Subtract from those prices Goosecross’s wine club discount or free shipping on a case, and you get a real deal.
Goosecross Cellars has a strong commitment to wine education, offering a free Wine Basics Class (see below) since 1995. The classes were the pet project of Colleen Topper’s, and for many years she taught them, too. Now Nancy Hawks Miller, a well-regarded Napa Valley wine educator for 20 years, teaches the classes at Goosecross.
Goosecross has also brought wine education to the web as the first winery to offer educational podcasts and a series of podcasts on appreciating food and wine together. Visit the website at napavalleywineradio.com to download podcasts and videos.
Goosecross Cellars is located at 1119 State Lane in Yountville, just a half-mile north of Yountville Crossroad. It’s a one lane driveway in and out of the property, with vines so close you can stick your hand out the window to touch them. Reservations are recommended and easy to secure by phone at 1-800-276-9210 or email at hospitality@goosecross.com. For more information, visit the website at goosecross.com where you can also browse Colleen Topper’s kitchen-tested recipes to pair with your wines.
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