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WILLIAM HILL

ESTATE

Focus, Focus, Focus

by Richard Paul Hinkle
You don’t have to go back all that far in California’s short wine history to recall when wineries tried to be all things to all people. One winery I worked for had a whole line of white wines, dry to sweet, a couple of rosés, a huge passel of reds (generics and varietals – three of which were bottled from the same tank!), a couple of sparkling wines (made for their label by another winery), and several dessert wines (dry and sweet). There were even a couple of vermouths in the mix! It was gaudy and it was confusing.
The late Andre Tchelistcheff – the sterling winemaker at Beaulieu for nearly four decades who...

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